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Des Moines Stump Grinding  ›  Service areas  ›  Stump grinding in Clive, IA
Stump grinding & removal · Clive, Iowa

Stump grinding in Clive, tight yards and big walnuts.

Clive is 1970s and 1980s housing wrapped around the Greenbelt Trail, with mature walnut and silver maple and a surprising number of big stumps for a small city. The lots are tight and the trees were planted close to the houses.

  • Free estimate in Clive
  • Most jobs within the week
  • Cleanup included
Grind depth quoted in inches. 811 locate before every job.

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Stump grinding in Clive, Iowa
Tree coverBlack walnut, silver maple, red maple, honeylocust, arborvitae
Typical stump24 to 40 inches, often close to a deck, fence or driveway
AccessTight lots, mature landscaping, wet ground near the Greenbelt
Local detail

What Clive stumps are actually like.

A lot of Clive stumps sit between a deck and a fence, or right at the edge of the Greenbelt corridor where the ground stays wet. We bring the compact grinder, keep it off wet turf where we can, and say so if the ground is too soft.

We grind 6 to 8 inches below grade as standard, deeper if you are replanting or setting a post. Grindings go back in the hole and get raked level, and the driveway gets blown off before we leave.

Neighborhoods we cover

  • The Greenbelt Trail corridor
  • The blocks near 86th and Hickman
  • The older grid between Hickman and University

Ground near the Greenbelt stays wet longer than the rest of the yard. We would rather come back on a dry day than leave ruts you have to live with until spring.

Clive stump profileWhat it means for your job
Housing era1960s to 1990s, with newer development along the western edge
Common speciesBlack walnut, silver maple, red maple, honeylocust, arborvitae
Typical stump24 to 40 inches, often close to a deck, fence or driveway
AccessTight lots, mature landscaping, wet ground near the Greenbelt
Trees and stumps

The stumps you are most likely to have in Clive.

Species matters more than people expect: it decides how hard the wood is, how wide the base spreads, and how long the roots sit in the ground before they rot.

Black walnut

Hard, dark wood and a wide flare. Slower going than maple, and the chips should not go straight into a bed you plan to plant.

Silver maple

The big one. Wide root flare, soft wood, often 36 to 48 inches at the base even when the trunk looks smaller from the street. Grinds fast for its size, and the roots keep a hump in the lawn for years.

Red maple

Planted across nearly every subdivision built since the 1990s. Shallow rooted, first to split in an ice storm, and usually 12 to 24 inches at the base. Fast to grind and the most common stump we see on newer lots.

Arborvitae

Multi-stem and fibrous. Grinds into a wet, stringy pile, so hauling the chips is usually worth the add on.

Sizing it up

How big is your stump, and what does that change?

Diameter at the base is the number that drives time, chips and equipment. Measure across the widest point where the trunk meets the ground, not the height.

Stump sizeWhat it usually takesWorth knowing
Under 12 inMostly ornamental and builder stumps. 15 to 30 minutes, half a wheelbarrow of chips.Cheapest per stump, especially several in one yard.
12 to 24 inThe most common residential stump in the metro. 30 to 45 minutes, about one wheelbarrow.Standard 6 to 8 inch grind, grass comes back over it.
24 to 36 inMature yard trees. 45 to 90 minutes, two to three wheelbarrows.Ask about hauling if the chips would sit in view.
36 in and up, or multi-stemOld silver maple, elm, walnut, and multi-trunk ornamentals. One to three hours, three or more barrow loads.Depth matters here. Replanting or setting a post means grinding deeper.
Time bands are typical, not a promise. Access, depth and what is buried nearby all move them. If you are not sure how wide yours is, put a tape measure or a shovel across the base in the photo and we will read it for you.
What we do in Clive

Four jobs, one crew.

Stump grinding

Cut to grade, ground 6 to 8 inches down, grindings raked level so you can mow over it.

The standard job →

Stump removal

Whole root ball out, for replanting, a patio, a fence post, or a stump that has lifted the concrete.

Full extraction →

Root grinding

Surface roots ground flush where they cross the lawn, the driveway, or the sidewalk.

Flush to grade →

Chip haul-away

Leave the grindings as mulch, or have them hauled off and screened topsoil brought in.

Optional add-on →
Pricing in Clive. Clive jobs are small in count and tight on access. One 30 inch walnut between a deck and a fence is a different quote than the same stump in an open yard, and we price it that way honestly.
The day of the job

What to expect, marks and all.

Honest version: a grinder is heavy equipment, the hole will settle, and the lawn is not a golf course when we leave. Here is what is normal and what is not.

Track and tire marks

Expect them on the approach and around the stump. Turf recovers in a week or two, and wet ground is the one case where we reschedule rather than chew up a yard. Wet ground is the one case where we reschedule.

Chips on the lawn

Grinding throws chips a few feet past the hole. We rake the bulk up and blow off hard surfaces. A light scatter in the grass is normal and disappears with the next mow.

A hole that settles

We fill and rake it level, then it drops an inch or two over the first season. That is ground wood breaking down, not a bad fill job. Top it off before seeding.

No seed, no sod

We leave it graded and ready. Seeding is yours, and on a deep grind you may need extra soil first. We tell you the depth so you know what you are working with.

Before we grind

Four things that keep the job simple.

Flag the private lines

Irrigation, dog fence, landscape lighting, and a gas line to a grill or shed are not marked by 811. Point them out, or mark them yourself, before we start.

Clear 3 feet around it

Hoses, toys, planters, the grill, and the dog. A grinder throws chips and does not stop for a hose reel.

Open the gate you want used

36 inches is the number that decides which machine shows up. Tell us the width, and whether there is a step or a slope.

Move the cars

Chips travel. If the stump is near the drive, park on the street that morning and we will leave the concrete clean.

Example jobs around Clive

Recent shapes of work. Swap these for real photos and job notes once the operator is on board.

NeighborhoodStumpWhat we did
Greenbelt corridor30 in walnut beside a deckGround 8 in, deck side, chips hauled
Near 86th and Hickman26 in silver mapleGround 6 in, hole filled and raked
Between Hickman and University8 arborvitae stumpsOne pass, mulch left on site
Questions from Clive

What homeowners here ask.

Do you need to come out before quoting a tight Clive yard?

Sometimes. If the grinder has to pass a gate, a step or a deck corner, a photo of the approach is usually enough. If it is genuinely too tight, we will say so instead of showing up and turning around.

Can you grind right up against a deck or foundation?

Yes, within a few inches. The cutting wheel reaches over the edge without touching the structure, and we work the stump down in passes. We will tell you before we start if a root has grown into something structural.

What if I don't know what kind of tree it was?

It does not matter for the quote. We price the stump by diameter and access, not by species, so you never need to identify the tree to get a number. If we need the species for depth or regrowth, we can usually tell from the bark, the wood grain, the color of the cut, the suckers, and what is growing nearby. A stump that has been down for years is sometimes too far gone to name, and it still grinds the same way.

Will your equipment mark up my yard?

Yes, some, and we would rather tell you now than surprise you. A stump grinder is a heavy machine on soft ground, so expect track or tire marks on the approach, a ring of disturbed soil around the hole, and chips thrown a few feet onto the lawn. We keep the machine on the driveway or the gravel where we can, and we tell you before we start if the ground is too soft to work. Turf recovers in a week or two. Wet spring ground is the case where we reschedule instead of leaving ruts.

Will the hole settle after you fill it?

It will, and you should plan for it. Ground wood and soil keep settling for a season, usually an inch or two and more on a big stump. Top it off with a bag or two of soil before you seed, then check it again the next spring. That settling is normal, it is why we do not promise a finished lawn, and it is the one follow up on a stump job worth doing.

Do you seed or sod the spot?

No. We leave the hole filled and raked level with the surrounding grade, ready for you to seed or sod. Seed is a small job: rake it loose, spread seed, add straw, water it for a couple of weeks. Ask us the depth we ground to, because if it is deeper than about six inches you will want another inch or two of soil on top first.

Does the size of the stump change the price?

Yes, size is the biggest factor. Diameter at ground level decides how much wood the wheel has to remove, and a stump twice as wide holds far more than twice the wood. Species only changes how long the machine runs, and your quote is per stump, so there is no discount for a dead ash and no surcharge for a live oak. The number we give you is the number you pay.

Nearby service areas

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